SmoothRed in Bordeaux, with Hugo Rose MW
Hugo Rose is a UK-based Master of Wine with over 30 years’ experience in the wine industry. In October 2015, he travelled to Bordeaux with SmoothRed director Adam Stebbings, to host a SmoothRed Deluxe Bordeaux Experience for ten VIP clients. This is his report.
Day One
The combination of fine autumnal weather, stunning vineyard visits and gastronomic cuisine proved a magical formula for the guests on the SmoothRed deluxe tour to Bordeaux last weekend. Our château hosts were in a relaxed mood, having just gathered what appears to be a very high quality crop, and were more than happy to open some of their best bottles for the group to taste.
Within an hour of landing at Mérignac airport, and after an impromptu deviation for a group photo in front of Château Margaux’ breath-taking neo-classical façade, we were at Latour to taste its latest releases. 2011 Pauillac, its third wine, was enjoyably accessible in the glass though with plenty of staying power. 2008 Les Forts de Latour was more structured and elegant, a handsome wine to serve with fine cuisine. And 2004 Chateau Latour was an exemplary ‘Grand Vin’, an exercise in soft power. The length in the glass was amazing.
The two Michelin-starred Relais & Chateaux Hotel Cordeillan-Bages is in fact a Pauillac vineyard in its own right. It tends two hectares of vines and the wine is made at neighbouring Lynch Bages. Our gourmet lunch was perfectly balanced and accompanied with well-chosen wines, the star perhaps being 2010 Château Cornélie, a Haut-Medoc located between Pauillac and Saint-Estèphe. The 2010 vintage is clearly destined for great things and some examples are already drinking well.
The warmth of the October sunshine had turned a wildflower garden at Château Mouton-Rothschild into a riot of pastel colours, a brilliant – and unexpected – sight to greet our arrival. We were given a private viewing of the incomparable wine museum, several millennia of wine-related artefacts assembled by the late Philippe de Rothschild together with the originals of the Mouton-Rothschild wine label art-works. 2014 Mouton-Rothschild, drawn from barrel, showed the pristine fruit, freshness and elegance of the vintage. But it was the 2007 Mouton which stole our hearts, a wine of expression, grace and charm that nonetheless exhibited the distinctive spice and weight of this majestic First Growth estate.
Our last call of the day was to what is probably the most eye-catching chateau in the whole of Bordeaux, Pichon-Baron, a 19th century chartreuse whose twin turrets set off a perfectly balanced design. Our palates were awakened with 2009 Pichon-Baron, a wine of almost sweet intensity and hedonistic to taste. After an aperitif of Pol Roger dinner was served in the elegant dining room. A lobster entré was accompanied with Château Suduiraut’s delicious dry white, 2013 ‘S’ de Suduiraut and a series of vintages of the Grand Vin were tasted with the main course. Guests debated at length which was the better wine, the opulent 2003 Pichon-Baron or the classic 2001. Dessert was accompanied by 2005 Chateau Suduiraut, already showing its sweet fruit and floral expression to perfection.
The stunning new cellars of Château Latour
Day Two
Day Two commenced on the Right Bank, with a further photo opportunity at the vineyard of none other than Château Pétrus, now Bordeaux’ most sought-after and expensive wine. Then on to our first tasting at the Saint-Emilion estate of Troplong-Mondot. The property is brilliantly located at the top of the escarpment above Château Pavie, with gorgeous vistas to the north, south, east and west. We were joined at our tasting by owner Xavier Pariente, who lives in the château surrounded by a beautiful ornamental garden. Four wines were poured, 2011 Troplong-Mondot being followed by the 2006, 2002 and 1999. This is an estate whose reputation is rising fast. Each of the wines was an excellent example of its vintage, the 2006 winning our admiration for its depth, balance and charm.
Lunch was provided at another of the region’s most revered restaurants, La Plaisance, located at the heart of the town of Saint-Emilion. The views over the tiled roofs, winding streets and historic landmarks are unforgettable. The restaurant did not disappoint, with a series of beautifully conceived amuses-bouche in front of a menu of sublime dishes. 2005 Château Berliquet, a Grand Cru Classé, demonstrated the potency of a great vintage without concealing the charm of a Saint-Emilion. The dessert here was judged easily the best of our trip.
Onwards after lunch, and a walking tour and shopping opportunity in the UNESCO world heritage town. Boutiques and wine shops abound and in one the group was treated to a tasting of no less than 2009 Angélus, 2003 Pavie and 1992 Lafite-Rothschild. While Angélus was imperial in its composure, Lafite thrilled with its sheer elegance in what was a testing vintage.
Then to the Pessac-Léognan district, the superior appellation within Graves. Château Smith-Haut-Lafitte is another rising star, as exemplified by the 2009 vintage (red) which was awarded a maximum 100 points by the influential US wine critic Robert Parker. Our tasting, introduced by none other than Florence Cathiard, co-owner with her husband Daniel, permitted us to compare 2009 Smith Haut-Lafitte with its successor, 2010. Both are amazing wines, the latter needing time to show its full potential, the former already offering an ethereal silky opulence. The property is equally famed for its dry white wines, barrel-fermented like a burgundy but made not with Chardonnay but the classic Bordeaux formula of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon – with a small proportion of the rare Sauvignon Gris, we were informed. 2011 and 2012 Smith-Haut-Lafitte Blanc were compared in the glass, the 2011 being judged the wine for the future, the 2012 more generous, already fabulously smooth to taste.
As fascinating as the tasting itself was the visit to the cellars. Smith-Haut-Lafitte is one of only four chateaux in Bordeaux to make its own barrels (Margaux is another). Its single cooper constructs 500 barriques a year using what appear to be very traditional techniques. The property leads the way in sustainable, organic and biodynamic viticulture too. A recent development is a carbon-capture device fitted to the fermenting tanks. This is a first for the region and possibly for the winemaking world.
The final destination of SmoothRed’s well-designed itinerary was to near neighbour Château Haut-Bailly. Here again the 2009 vintage achieved a maximum 100 point rating from Parker. Demand has been massive and the château is down to its last 100 bottles, barely enough for its library collection. Our programme concluded in the beautifully proportioned château where we were greeted in the salon with a welcomed glass of Billecart-Salmon. Dinner followed and again guests relished a number of vintages from the Chateau with a terrific menu prepared by the estate’s full-time chef. Only red wine is made here: 2011 La Parde de Haut Bailly (the second label) led the way for pairs of the Grand Vin, Château Haut-Bailly 2008 & 2007, 2003 and 2000. Each had its own character and to no great surprise the magnificent 2003 and 2000 provided a fitting final taste of the quality that Bordeaux wine is capable of.
With broad smiles of pleasure we boarded the luxury coach to return along ‘le quai’ beside the Garonne River to the heart of Bordeaux. We were based at the Grand Hotel de Bordeaux perfectly located opposite the Grand Théâtre in the absolute heart of the city. As its name suggests this is a sumptuous 5 star hotel which has a personality of its own. It has recently scored a coup with the opening of Gordon Ramsey’s latest restaurant on the first floor, Le Pressoir d’Argent.
If this sounds like your kind of thing, why not check out some of our Bordeaux wine experiences? Or give us a call on +44 (0)20 8877 4940 or e-mail one of our team at sales@smoothred.co.uk to find out more.
